History of Sichuan Brocade
? Sichuan was one of the first areas to start sericulture. The cultivation of the silkworm can be traced back to the third century BC. According to archeological discovery, silk and silk fabrics emerged at least 5,500 years ago. In the Zhou Dynasty, a special administration was set up to manage sericulture and silk production. From 138 to 126 BC, Zhang Qian started his diplomatic mission to the West along the famous Silk Road. Sericulture and silk production techniques gradually spread to other countries.
? As early as the fourth century BC, local people in Sichuan were able to produce a kind of plain silk cloth Bo. The brocade came into use on the basis of the weaving skills of the plain silk cloth, which was first produced in Chengdu.
? During the Han Dynasty, the brocade made in Sichuan was named Shu brocade. Towards the end of the Eastern Han Dynasty a device was invented to weave raised designs on fine silk. The new technique greatly enhanced the quality of silk products, and Shu brocade became important articles of tribute to the imperial court.
? In 214, Liu Bei and his troop entered into Sichuan where he replaced Liu Zhang, former governor appointed by the Han emperor. He took bolts of Shu brocade from the local official storage, and he rewarded his assistants and generals, who helped him set up his kingdom with them.
? During the Three Kingdoms Period, Zhuge Liang, a renowned statesman of the Shu state placed agriculture and sericulture on the tip lists of the state development. Zhuge said in his memorial to the throne, that the brocade was the only financial support to the decisive battle with the enemy state.
? Since Sichuan and central China were linked up, the weaving industry boomed. It flourished during the Tang, Song and Yuan dynasties. The varieties, colors and patterns became abundant.
? In the Tang Dynasty, Sichuan brocade produced a large number of marvelous patterns.? Flowers, the red lined lion and phoenix brocade. Animal designs in pairs highlighted the feature. They included pheasant games, playing sheep, flying phoenix and other animals. At that time, only high officials and noble lords could afford to enjoy the use of brocade.
? Furthermore, the ancient businessmen traveled along the Silk Road, and brocade was sold in Central Asia, the Mediterranean areas and Europe. Brocade was also in Japan, where local Japanese named it as Shujiangfan. At the present time, Japanese temples by the name of Shyosoin Temple and Houryuji Temple still store the remnants of Shujiang Xiaofan, and Shuajiang Taizi Yujuansan.
? In the Northern and Southern Song dynasties the brocade industry advanced into large-scale workshops. The Chengdu Brocade Workshop had 154 looms and 500 workers. The workers were divided into groups. Each group had Southern Song dynasties the brocade industry advanced into large-scale workshops. The Chengdu Brocade Workshop had 154 looms and 500 workers. The workers were divided into groups. Each group had different jobs. Some groups rolled up silk fabrics, some weaved silk yarns, and others dyed the fabrics.
? Patterns and Features of the Brocade
? Sichuan brocade is a silk product, it is soft and colorful. The brocade developed over twenty centuries, and over several hundred types evolved. Some patterns are so popular that they are taken as pattern models among the other three styles of brocade. At present, handmade brocade, its jacquared boom is electronically equipped.
? The present Sichuan brocade fabrics include the facing of the quilt, the materials of clothes and other decorative purposes. In Southwest China some ethnic nationalities especially enjoy wearing brocade aprons and headscarves.
? Some fashionable patterns are listed below:
??Fangfang Brocade (the check-patterned brocade)
? First of all, the looms weave a single-colored brocade bottom. Secondly on the bottom colorful warp and weft silk threads weave check-shaped patterns. Finally a flower is added into each check by looms.
? Yuehua Brocade (the moonlight brocade)
? Groups of colorful warp and weft silk threads are woven according to designated patterns. The weaving visually transforms from light to dark colors. Then decorative patterns are added to display the high skill of tow-to-thread spinning.
? Huanhua Brocade (the fallen flower and flowing river brocade)
? Plum, peach and other flowers are woven on brocade fabrics. The pattern shows pleasant scenery with fallen flowers and flowing rivers.
??Pudi Brocade
? Pudi Brocade means adding more flowers to the brocade fabrics. First of all, the brocade bottom is woven into geometric figures and small flower patterns. The figures and small flowers are then added to support large flowers in an attempt to make the pattern look more splendid.
? Some other patterns deserve comment. They are Sanhua Brocade, which means the brocade is full hundreds of flowers, Dui Hua Brocade, which means that the brocade flowers have the same numbers exhibiting regular patterns, Min Zu Brocade which means that the brocade is suitable for ethnic nationalities in the local areas.